Posted by Sharon on Tuesday, 6 May 2008, at 8:44 a.m.:
In Reply to: weaving question posted by Jo Ann on Friday, 2 May 2008, at 8:52 a.m.:
JoAnn,
I always warp from back to front regardless of the length of the warp. You don't say what fiber you are using for your warp and that may make a difference also. I always choke tie my warp on the warping board at least every yard (and even more frequently when I am warping linen). For even short warps then you don't have the knot at the warp beam. THen using a raddle and lease sticks I roll the warp on the back beam with a continuous piece of heavy paper (I like unpasted wall paper) separating out the layers of warp. THen when I get to the choke ties I come around to the front of the loom and pull my warp through the castle and pull it until it doesn't tighten any more, untie the next choke tie and continue winding. THis way the warp is wound tightly and evenly on the back beam. The cross is now behind the castle in the lease sticks. I can cut the warp loop and begin threading my heddles in cross order and then the reed. Then I sit at the front of the loom and take each half inch bunch of warp threads and straighten them out and even them out as much as possible and then tie an overhand knot near the end of each 1/2 inch bunch. Finally I lash them onto the front rod. After I check the shed for crossed threads I take out the raddle and lease sticks and actually lay them across the warp in front of the reed to press down on the warp and even up the tension across the warp. I aways tell my students all along in the process that they are striving for EVEN tension across the warp you can always add more tightness. Good Luck in your warping and weaving endeavors. Sharon